I live for quick trips upstate. I pack fast, hop in the car, and chase fresh air. Over the past two years, I stayed at a bunch of cool hotels across the Catskills, the Hudson Valley, the Adirondacks, and the Finger Lakes. Some were cozy. Some were fancy. A couple were both. And a few had little quirks that I still think about in the best way.
If you ever crave a city break with the same creative spirit, check out The Hotel Modern for a dose of design inspiration. For the full nitty-gritty of every stop, you can read my complete upstate hotel diary.
For an even broader view, Wallpaper*’s best hotels in Upstate New York roundup offers a curated list that pairs nicely with my on-the-ground notes.
You know what? Picking a place is hard. So here’s how I’d match mood to hotel, based on real nights, real rooms, and real meals I paid for.
- Date night with a view: Piaule Catskill or The DeBruce
- Stylish but chill with friends: Scribner’s Catskill Lodge or Hotel Lilien
- Design nerd heaven: The Maker Hotel or Foxfire Mountain House
- Rustic romance: Urban Cowboy Lodge or Kenoza Hall
- Family time with lots to do: Mohonk Mountain House or The Lake House on Canandaigua
- Budget-ish but still cute: Eastwind Hotel & Bar (Windham) or The Roxbury
Back in NYC, if you ever just need a simple crash pad before hitting the road north again, my no-frills stay at the Belnord Hotel on the Upper West Side did the trick—and kept the travel budget happy for the next mountain run.
Alright, let me explain what actually stood out.
Scribner’s Catskill Lodge, Hunter — The Cozy-Mountain One
I stayed in a Lodge King with a mountain view. Check-in was quick, and the staff handed me a s’mores kit like it was a secret. The pool faces Hunter Mountain, so even a short swim felt grand. Dinner at Prospect was the star—my trout came hot and crisp, and the cider list made me smile.
- What I loved: fire pits, mountain light, and a calm vibe in the morning
- What bugged me: thin walls in my wing; bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
- Pro tip: grab a table right by the big windows at sunset—yes, it’s worth asking
Urban Cowboy Lodge, Big Indian — Tubs, Wood, Records
This place feels like a camp for adults. My room had a big copper tub and a little stove. The record player worked, and the knit blankets felt like home. I soaked for so long my fingers pruned. The creek outside was loud in a good way—white noise that knocked me out. And if the Catskills are calling, Condé Nast Traveler’s guide to the best Catskills hotels is another smart resource to browse before you lock in dates.
- Loved: soaking tubs, long hikes right from the door, the bar’s hot toddy
- Bugged: no TVs, patchy cell service, food hours can be short on weeknights
- Note: it’s a trek; the drive in after dark felt spooky but fun
The Maker Hotel, Hudson — Glam Without Trying Too Hard
I booked a standard room and still got velvet, dim lamps, and those cool ceilings. Breakfast at the Café was flaky pastry heaven. The Lounge felt like a movie set, with low chairs and a moody glow. I wore boots that squeaked on the wood floors and felt important for no reason.
- Loved: scent in the halls (soft and warm), strong coffee, details everywhere
- Bugged: prices jump on weekends; lighting runs dark if you like bright rooms
- Sweet touch: the staff remembered my name the second day, which never happens
Foxfire Mountain House, Mount Tremper — Soft Light and Gin
Foxfire is pure charm. Greenhouse bar. Tile floors that click. A pond that looks like a painting. I stayed on a Sunday, and the whole place felt hushed. My gin and tonic had a tiny wild sprig in it, which sounds silly, but it made the drink sing.
- Loved: the greenhouse, soft beds, slow breakfast
- Bugged: sound carries in the old house; weddings can take over on weekends
- Bring: a sweater for late-night walks around the pond
The DeBruce, Livingston Manor — Dinner That Stays With You
This is a food trip with rooms attached, in the best way. My stay came with a set dinner, and I said yes to everything. A brook trout course made me do that small happy sigh at the table. In the morning, I walked the trails by the river and counted three deer.
- Loved: the tasting menu, the quiet, staff who really know the area
- Bugged: fixed meal times, and it’s very calm—great for couples, less for kids
- Tip: book a river-facing room; the light hits the hills just right
Eastwind Hotel & Bar, Windham — Small Cabins, Big Stars
I tried a Lushna cabin (the standard one). It’s tiny, warm, and faces tall grass and sky. I brought a headlamp, which helped after the fire pit. The main building has board games and simple cocktails. It felt like sleepaway camp, but with better sheets.
- Loved: stargazing, friendly staff, easy access to Windham Mountain
- Bugged: some Lushna units use a shared bathhouse; check your room type
- Pack: a cozy hat and your favorite deck of cards
Piaule Catskill, Catskill — Glass Wall, Quiet Heart
I saved for this one. Each cabin faces the woods, with a full glass wall. I woke to soft fog and felt like I was in a still photo. The spa was calm, with a warm pool and a dry sauna. I spoke in a whisper without meaning to.
- Loved: design, the view, silence that sinks in
- Bugged: very pricey; food on-site is refined, not heavy, so plan snacks
- Good to know: rooms are spaced out; bring easy shoes for the boardwalks
Troutbeck, Amenia — Books, Meadow, Firelight
This estate hotel surprised me. I came for the pool and stayed for the library rooms. I read a whole book on a stormy afternoon. Dinner tasted like a farm stand in summer—simple, bright, and clean.
- Loved: service, walking paths, calm pool mornings
- Bugged: can be family-heavy on weekends; brunch gets busy
- Sweet detail: hot tea by the fire shows up fast when you look cold
The Lake House on Canandaigua — Blue Water, Big Smiles
My room faced the lake, and I watched boats twirl in the wind. The Sand Bar had a frozen drink that made me giddy. I tried paddleboarding and fell in. Twice. No one laughed. Or maybe they did, but I was busy in the water.
- Loved: dock life, fire pits, Rose Tavern’s roast chicken
- Bugged: weddings can take over spaces; ask what’s booked that weekend
- Bonus: perfect spot for sunset photos that don’t even need edits
Mohonk Mountain House, New Paltz — Old School in a Grand Way
Yes, it’s classic and a bit formal. But the lake, the cliffs, the miles of trails—wow. I skated in winter under a roof with music and lights. In summer, I did the rock scramble and felt brave for a day.
I even ducked into the fitness center and, miracle of miracles, got a workout in—proof that hitting the hotel gym doesn’t have to be a drag. While I was on that health kick, I recently fell down a research rabbit hole and discovered this deep-dive on the best testosterone boosters you can order on Amazon right now that breaks down formulations, scientific backing, and real-user feedback so you can decide whether a natural supplement could amplify the energy you’re working so hard for.
- Loved: all the activities, porch rocking chairs, meals included
- Bugged: pricey package rates; rooms lean traditional
- Plan: book times for the big stuff, like boating or the spa
The Roxbury, Catskills — Playful, Wild, Pure Fun
This one is silly in the best way. I stayed in a themed room with a starry ceiling. Everything pops with color. It felt like a set from a show, and I was the lead. The staff cheered me on like I’d won a prize for booking it.
- Loved: the whimsy, the value, friendly vibes
- Bugged: rooms vary a lot; look at photos and pick with care
- Family note: kids go wild with joy here—mine did
So…Which One Should You Book?
- For food and peace: The DeBruce
- For tubs and romance: